Spirit to Play, Pockets to Pay

(Journal transcription from Sunday September 7^th 7:30pm ish)

Yesterday I went to Rodney Bay with several of the other Peace Corps Volunteers. We played on the beach outside one of the resorts. We laughed, once again, about how we were not paying a dime to bask in the suns rays and body surf on the waves but all the families and couples around us were paying to be in this tropical land! Then we decided to order a beer at the beach bar. While we were sippin’ on our bevs Bob Marley came by and made me a bowl out of palm leaves. I kept telling him “I don’t have any money to give the children,” but he made it anyway. Did you know Bob Marley can both sing and make bowls out of palm leaves? Oh yes, he also mastered a skill only Jesus knows, returning from the dead.

Anyhow, when the bill was brought our laughter got quieter; 6EC for a Piton and 10EC for a club soda!! That was twice as much as anywhere else on the island! Geez, I hope I have enough of my walk around allowance to make it through next week! Although, if I have to chew away some of my thigh in order to survive through the week I would not complain; I have gained 5 lbs since arriving in St. Lucia. Don’t worry mom and dad… they are feeding me well! St. Lucians like their oils, fats, and fried foods. I figured walking would make up for all the banana fritters and fried goodies – Eh Eh. My usual workout routine has come to a halt. I did find a gym and heard about a natatorium, but I won’t be able to afford membership until I start getting my monthly stipend. This will start coming after I get sworn in on October 23^rd ish.

A few things I will eventually need:
Britta Filter (water has parasite/weight loss diet bug)
Hammock
5 gallon bucket with lid (for water outages)
Extra camera battery
Underwater case for camera
Snorkeling gear
Rope
Dog collar (for my new puppy, Cato)

Peace Corps - Volunteer or CIA?

(Journal transcription from Friday September 5^th 10:54pm)

Tonight, Halley, Scott, Lois and I went Limon (pronounced lime en) in Rodney Bay. We found ourselves roaming around the beaches on Rodney Bay by some of the resorts. We were tickled at the fact that some people were paying to walk the sandy beach and watch the waves lap at the surface while we were watching the tropical sunset from the coast for free!

We decided to take a taxi home since it was dark outside when we left the Bay. We got to talking with the driva and he truly believed that Peace Corps Volunteers are really part of the CIA! He states that many St. Lucians think such things. When we attempted to correct him and tell him what the Peace Corps is really about, the assisting cultures in need and cultural exchange, he stated “OH, you are very intelligent indeed!” Further, he was totally bemused by the fact that we are Obama fans. He wondered how it can be that a white person is so willing to vote for a black man. He said things like, “But he is not your color, how can you vote for him?” We tried to explain to him that the color of his skin is unimportant to us and that it is his political platform that matters to us. This was completely outside his world of understanding. He asked us, “Does racism not exist in America anymore?” We tried to paint a balanced picture of both the progress in America and the progress that still needs to be made in America… all of this in a 5 minute taxi ride! He voiced that he believes the black man is stupid in the eyes of the white man, and we tried to correct his misperceptions. Hopefully we gave him some knowledge on the diversity of American culture. I think he still thinks we are CIA!

Training, Theft in the City, and Digicel

I had my first day of training at the PC office today. It was nice. They really know how to throw you into the work. I have to complete a community map of my neighborhood by next Monday. This is a physical map that shows the geography of all of the businesses and organizations in my community that will also indicate the most important resources, most available resources, areas community members spend the most time and the least time and the expressed needs of the men and women in the community. Time to get talkin to people!

Today in Castries I was on the bus with one of the other volunteers. We were in stop-n-go traffic in the city when a man suddenly ran up and yanked the chain off of the woman sitting in the passenger side seat. He just reached through the window and yanked it off her neck! She started shoutin “He got my chain, He got my chain!” The bus driver jumped out to run after him but could not catch him! I was so surprised that none of the 100s of bystanders stopped him. It was unfortunate for the woman, but I felt fortunate to witness the theft. It serves as a reminder to guard my valuables and be careful in the city.

Tomorrow I open my bank account – money money money, MONEY! Soon enough, in 7 weeks, we will finally be getting some funds to live on. Something a little less modest than the $133EC ($45) every other week that we are getting now! It is supposed to pay our bus fairs and leave a small amount as a walk around allowance. I am also getting a St. Lucian phone. I am happy I waited on the SIM card because Digicel, one of the two phone companies here, gives a deal to PCVs. It is $10 a month and we can call any PCV or PC staff on the network unlimitedly. Anything else, usual rates apply. However, we can still receive any incoming calls free of charge! WOO WOO!

What I have learned in Patois

English	Patois
Calabash (the national tree)	Calabath
Soursup (a yummy fruit in my yard)	Casal
Golden apple (a ummy fruit in my yard)	Punusita
Banana	Figme
Guava	Guave
Lime	Cito
Orange	Jueiage
Mango	Mago
Coconut	Cocoa
Bread fruit	Bapa
Dog	Chiem
Avocado	Zabca
Sugar apple	Pumcanel

English	Patois
Good morning	Bonjou
Goodnight	Bonzou
How are you?	Sac a feat?
What is your name?	Koumonnon’w?
My name is....	Non mwen se…
Brother	Fwe
Sister	Sese
Mother	Manman
Father	Papa
My brothers name is…	Non fwe mwen se…
I have one dog, his name is Cato	Mwen ni yon chime, li non se Cato
Leave me alone, please	Ki te mwen, bat-mize mwen, souple
Go fix yourself up!	Wanja kou!

Country Music Meets Ghetto Super Star

(Journal transcription from Sunday August 31^st 9:30pm ish)

I just got back from the Western Palace. It was not what I expected even in the least! I am glad I decided to step outside my fears and go. I knew not to expect a bunch of tight jeans and cowboy hats because I had already asked if people would be dressed in this way. However, I was definitely expecting a bunch of middle to old-aged folk doing the two-step and line dances on a small dance floor. I experienced something entirely different from this, and expectations I didn’t even know I had were broken! What I encountered was a pitch black, VERY LARGE, ‘night club’ looking place with 100s of people of all ages. The women were wearing the same kind of night club garb you would see in the states and the guys were wearing gold chains, caps and loose fitting jeans. AND they were all dancing the two-step! WOAH, culture clash! Naturally, I quickly noticed that I was the only white face in the crowd but not due to any sort of negative attention. As I walked into the place I found myself feeling extremely uncomfortable, knowing that if I were to walk into a predominantly black club in America I would most likely elicit at least a few rude glances and snide remarks. However, I experienced something completely to the contrary. People were generally pleasant, if they even took notice of me at all! It is hard to say whether this was because my PC mom’s tight grasp on me discouraged negative attention or if it was because racial prejudice is weaker than it is in the states. Any how, there seems to be a positive sentiment towards Americans, and PCVs are respected in St. Lucia. Warning about the St. Lucian men whom try to take advantage of foreign women has found its way to my ears many times already; although, they were very respectable on the dance floor. I enjoyed myself thoroughly and was sad when the time came to leave. Not what I expected at all!

Goodnight,

Ashley

Church and Food... It must be Sunday

(Journal transcription from Sunday August 31rst 4:00 pm ish)

Today has been better than yesterday. I am feeling more relaxed as I become more familiar with my host mom and home. It also turns out that there is an up side to no children in the house after all, as I got to sleep in until 6:45!! Yes, 6:45am is considered sleeping in when I have been up by 5 since I got to Miami. When I woke up I went to church with Mrs. B. She goes to a quaint little catholic church up the road. She seemed delighted that I chose to go with her. It was a memorable experience that was both pleasant and embarrassing. It also offered some familiarity. During church the Deccan asked the new comers to stand and introduce themselves. This is where me and me alone stood, and my host mom introduced me to the whole congregation; as if my single vanilla face wasn’t sticking out enough in the sea of chocolate! As I stood their awkwardly the choir started to sing a hymn and when I went to sit down I was motioned to remain standing. I hadn’t the slightest idea why I was to remain standing their, and my embarrassment grew. I felt a tap on my shoulder from a man who had apparently been standing in the aisle for some time waiting to shake my hand and tell me ‘Welcome.’ Several people proceeded to come to greet me for the remainder of the song. Even though I was blushing the entire time I was standing, I sat down grateful for the experience. I felt welcome and pleased to meet several people in the community. Also, for a brief moment I was thankful for having been raised in the Catholic Church. I knew the chants and proceedings and actually felt that I was fitting in during service. It was a great way to get connected. Though, I am certain I saw the Deccan hesitate when I went to receive communion! When I informed Mrs. B that I could take communion but had not ever been confirmed she was quick to inform me it was never too late and could do it while I am in St. Lucia. Eh… while I know my time here will influence me in many unthinkable ways, I am certain I wont be promising myself to the catholic church while in St. Lucia. Nevertheless, I did enjoy the calypso infused hymns and rich tradition that exists here.

Things for further discussion:

I took the bus for the first time today. The buses are actually large vans that hold about 14 – 16 passengers.

I learned to wash my undergarments by hand

I learned to make Caribbean style okra, macaroni, sauce, beans and rice. (Sunday lunch is the biggest meal of the week in St. Lucia)

I ate my first fresh guava (guave in Kweol). DELICIOUS!

Tonight Mrs. B has invited me to go to a country western dance and I don’t know if I shall go. She said we will be there for 3 hours! I am really nervous and I want to go but I fear feeling very out of place. It is 10 EC to get in. I will decide soon. Regardless, today has been a wonderful day!

A Stranger in a Strange Land

(Journal transcription from August 30^th 5pm ish)

I am sitting on the top balcony of my host mom and dads house; I call them Mrs. and Mr. B. I asked for no kids on my home stay form, and this is what I go. However, now I am wishing there were some little rascals running around here. I suppose I will miss my niece Ava waking me up every morning after all! I asked if my host mom knows of anyone my age in the neighborhood that I could make friends with and she doesn’t seem to know anyone. I suppose I will need to keep the lookout and be proactive in meeting the neighbors. I will go to church with her in the morning; she is Catholic, as are most St. Lucians.

My host parents live in a fairly large house; something I wasn’t expecting. It is two stories with a large wrap around patio that I know my mom would love, and the lawn is fabulous! We have 2 dogs, Blacky (he is the old and wiser dog. He is nice to the other animals and even leaves the chickens alone) and ‘the brown one’, 2 cats called ‘puss puss’, several mango trees, guava trees, banana trees, limes, a bread fruit tree, and two more new fruits that I cannot pronounce the names of yet! (Calabash and ….?)

For my first lunch, Mrs. B made a very delicious pumpkin soup. We also have pumpkins growing in the garden. I am still very excited about trying all the new Caribbean dishes. However, even more exciting is my bedroom! I have my own bedroom and bathroom and couldn’t be more relieved that I don’t have to share! We have hot water, cable TV, a microwave, toaster oven, and a washing machine but everything hangs on the line to dry and I am to wash my undergarments by hand. Other things I do not have: dishwasher, internet, A/C, screens on windows, tub. That is all I notice for now

I already feel a little isolated and alone. This disappoints me because I thought I would make it at least a day in my new home!! It is awkward arriving to live in a strangers home in a completely unfamiliar place. I suppose it is the level of discomfort that brought me to tears. I believe it is my first time I have ever been brought to tears out of feeling uncomfortable and awkward. It happened after I finished unpacking my things. I was feeling like I didn’t know what to do with myself. I am thankful that I started this habit of journaling many many years ago; it feels good to write and be out on the balcony.

Man, I can already tell that rooster will be annoying – crowing already (Hannah, this one is confused about the time as well. Maybe is related to out AAH House rooster) There is an annoying dog next door too. Well, I suppose that rooster and dog will take over Ava’s job! I am surprised Mrs. B doesn’t have a car; she has such a lovely house. Anyway, I suppose I must get used to Buses and Walking for the next 2 years! There goes that rooster again.

Straight in front of me is a large mountain side. It is very near… Maybe ½ mile away. I hope that when I move into my own house in 7 weeks that it will be higher up or near the water. I am about ½ mile walk from the beach.

It is an interesting experience knowing that you are the minority in every way, too. There is no way I can ever go unnoticed when I am living in a country that is 95% black. I plan to write more about this later as I experience this aspect more in my daily living.

My host mom has been working with the PC for 16 years. I am her 6^th PC daughter. I wonder what their service experience was like. Did they miss the internet as much as I can tell I am going too?! Ha.

AND, I miss Jason. I miss him so much that I cannot write further about it because I feel the tears welling up already!